10 January 2006

Tuesday in Seoul

We were really depressed last night. So many glitches. No driver at the airport, they wouldn't let us into the new guest house over the weekend, no volunteer could be found for the city tour, we got the wrong information about our 1st visit with Madeleine and the foster family, and were lucky to be only 30 minutes late (and with no list of questions, no gifts, no camcorder), and we could tell they weren't terribly impressed.

So we needed a great day like today to change our attitude. We wanted to do Gyeongbukgung palace, but read in the guidebook that it is closed Tuesdays. So we gave another go at getting into the new guest house. This time, the doorman let us through--I think he thought we had an appointment--and we met Stacy and her mom and neice. We all went to a Hyundai market looking for baby stuff. We didn't find much (and why are all the dolls caucasian?) and it was expensive. I thought I recalled that someone said that it was like the Korean Wal-Mart, but we didn't think so. The basement was extremely cool, with kiosks vending cheesecake, tea, wine, toiletries, and one we had to try--some kind of hot pancake with a sweet sesame seed/cinnamon/apple (?) filling. Excellent? Anyone know what these are called (hato?). Also a really upscale grocery that has to be seen to be beleived.

Then we intended to go to lunch at a restaurant supposedly near Changdeokgung Palace, but even with the hangul and asking directions at the police station, we couldn't find it. It was not a total loss, though. We went on to the palace and got the tickets for the guided tour in English. We had half an hour and no lunch in us, so we went back to the french patisserie in the Anguk subway station--heavenly pastries (sweet and savory) and a cafe mocha.... And the palace tour was great. It seemed warmer today. The sun was out and it was calm, but maybe we're just getting used to the weather.

Then we went to Namdaemung market, arriving about 4:00. Much cheaper souvenirs (tassel ornaments, keychain fobs... than Itaewon), and the tourist info was able to direct us to the indoor "Korean Folk Market" where Susan found a hanbok for herself (already bought one for Audrey at Itaewon, and we'll get one for Madeleine if we aren't given one, which seems likely at this point).

We lost Stacy and family at the market (understandable) and Audrey was crashing out, so we stopped at a restaurant and had dolsot bibimbap and then back to the guest house.

When we arrived, there was a note on the door from Mrs. Lee saying that she had found us a guide for a tour following our 11am meeting and well-baby doctor's visit with Madeleine. It was so nice of her to go to what I'm sure was extra trouble...
More tomorrow, I hope. What a great day!

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