28 January 2008

Photos for Fun

These are fun. Rather than send the obligatory forwarded email to everyone in my address book, I'll post here. I particularly like the cow (but I know someone who would really appreciate the pandas: http://www.dvo.com/newsletter/monthly/2005/may/jest4.html

09 January 2008

Remembering Art Saltzman

Yesterday I learned in a phone call that Arthur Saltzman, Professor of English at Missouri Southern State University, had passed away due to a brain aneurysm at the age of 54. This statement was met with ten full seconds of silence as the full impact descended upon my consciousness. One might think me an unlikely person to write a tribute to Dr. Saltzman, as I did not know him particularly well on a personal level. However, I find myself impacted greatly by his loss, and besides, what else is a blog for than to express my feelings.

Art Saltzman was my colleague as an instructor at Southern. But before that, he was my teacher. I respected him greatly, though I would never have considered him my friend. As a student, I felt him perhaps to be above my station, and I knew for a fact that I had not lived up to his expectations. As a colleague, I could never really get past the teacher-student hierarchy, though this did not pose a problem with the colleagues I work closely with who were also once my professors. I think this is because Art never would have seen as much of my professional work as he did of my student work some 20 years ago.

Of all my college professors, I have found myself over the years thinking of Dr. Saltzman probably more than any other. Even yesterday morning, before I received the phone call, I was listening to a story on NPR about the notable American author Raymond Carver. The last time--who am I kidding, the only time--I read Carver was in Dr. Saltzman's course in college. In fact, I can say the same about Cheever, O'Connor, Salinger. I never would have chosen to read these on my own; I prefer other genres of fiction. But I value having read them, being able to participate in conversations about them, even if the only thing I can recall about Flannery O'Connor is that she wrote from a Roman Catholic perspective. And naturally, upon hearing a story about Carver, I thought of Art Saltzman, and his course, and I felt even a bit smug with the knowledge that I could understand the reasons and content of the interview with Carver's widow.

One of my favorite remembrances of Dr. Saltzman's wit in the classroom was a lighthearted ideology that he espoused on more than one occasion. Upon bemoaning the continual prevalence of crime against others in society (such as thievery or murder), Dr. Saltzman suggested that everyone in the world should be named "Bob." Since many crimes are committed against people that are unknown to the perpetrator, Dr. Saltzman theorized that his proposal would reduce the crime rate. After all, he would say, a potential murderer would think twice before pulling the trigger because he would know that the potential victim was Bob. "I can't shoot Bob," he would think!

I was a bit disappointed in myself, as I found my thoughts turning to what I have lost with Art's passing. I had intended to go to his book signing last month, to buy his latest collection of essays, have him sign it, and perhaps open a dialogue that might begin to resolve the conflict of my professional adolescence. And going would have shown the respect that I felt for Art that I was too immature to show as a student and too sheepish to express as a coworker. But I left another event that evening, with my wife and young kids, and it was easier to just skip the signing. Now, I thought, I'll never get that chance, nor will I get my book signed. How selfish and shallow of me. But how natural, to think first of oneself.

I did go straight to Hastings yesterday and buy the book. I've only read a page or two, but I know it will be great. The humor and wit will be especially poignant, like what I imagine a newly-married bride's last moments with her war-bound husband might have been.

I had Dr. Saltzman for two courses. The second was an American Literature course. I actually remember little of the class, except that I was supposed to keep a regular journal (perhaps of my readings, thoughts and experiences, but I really don't recall) and that I received a poor grade. The poorest ever for me, in fact. At any level. By two letters. I recall sitting in the library on the day after classes ended, beginning to attempt to try to recreate some semblance of a journal that I had not kept. In the end, I couldn't bring myself to do it. I attached a note to what little work I had actually done over the previous four months. In the note, I apologized for the lack of effort put into the journal, and the course, and asked Dr. Saltzman to give me the grade I deserved. Then I dropped it off in his mailbox, or with the secretary. Or perhaps I handed it to him. That part I don't recall. But I know there was no discussion, and I know that Dr. Saltzman honored my request.

Not able to face him again after that, I retook that course from another instructor (who did not require keeping journals) and made an A. But I knew I had taken the low road. I did learn from the experience that I don't really have the dedication to keep a regular journal. I am more of a deadline-oriented worker. This blog (or lack thereof) is evidence of that fact. But I regret not taking the course again and forcing myself to do the work despite my disinclination to do so. I made an A, but I know I could have done better. I know for a fact that a letter grade does not indicate the magnitude of the lessons learned, because I learned more from that D than from any course I ever "aced." It just wasn't about American Literature.

I always wondered if Dr. Saltzman/Art thought of that incident whenever we encountered each other in recent years. I know I did. But he never would have said anything. I had hoped to bring it up with him someday, kind of a confessional. Perhaps he could have given me some penance, or a scholar's pardon.

And now I am the Director of the Honors Program from which I graduated 18 years ago. Art was with the program from its very beginning in 1984 until yesterday. We have lost undoubtedly the most prolific, most respected author and sharpest-witted wordsmith in the history of the university. To say that he will be missed is, well, honestly all anyone can say--but no words are sufficient to describe how he will be missed, or how much . I grieve for those students who will never have the chance to be in one of his classes. I grieve for those who have had the chance, but will not have it again. I grieve for his companion, Joy, his children, and all those close to him. I grieve for the English department, and indeed, for Missouri Southern. I grieve for myself, though I can't put into words exactly why I am so affected. Perhaps it is because he opened my mind to new and strange ideas in my so-called formative years. And he did so for, literally, generations of college students--all at a small school in Joplin, Missouri. He dedicated his entire career to doing so, in fact. How amazing, that something like that could happen. And how wonderful.

Arthur Saltzman... you will be missed.

24 December 2007

The twelve days of Christmas

Not many people these days know that the twelve days of Christmas, from the song of the same name, *begin *on Christmas day and go until Epiphany on January 6. Of course, I considered myself one of the enlightened few, always keeping my holiday lights on in the evenings days after others had already removed them from the house. So when I explained this to my daughter, she naturally asked me, "What's Epiphany, Dad?" To which I said, of course, "Um... I'm not really sure. I'll have to look it up." Leave it to a 5-year-old to expose your long undiscovered gaps in knowledge. Oh, and I'm not going to try to explain it here. It's really quite complicated, and Wikipedia does a better job than I could.

But this post is really about something else. Namely, why many of you on our Christmas card list will be receiving yours even later than usual this year. I had intended to mail them this morning. But after the two-year-old daughter woke up at 3 AM with repeated trips to the bathroom, laundry room, and back (I'll spare you the details, but this went on for hours and eventually she slept intermittently on the bathroom floor with her mom), the trip to the post office was postponed. Later, about 1:30 pm actually, I found out that a) the local snail mail office closed at noon, and b) the stamp machine doesn't dispense 1 or 2-cent stamps, which I needed since there were already stamps from 2005 on most of the cards...

But there is still time for you to receive your requisite holiday greeting from us within the 12-day window. Merry Christmas!

17 December 2007

Fall Photos

I thought it was time to post a couple of new photos. We have one Audrey picked of herself and her sister for her own Floam photo frame, one at the pumpkin patch (Fredrickson's), and one of me with the kids on Halloween before they took me to the airport to leave town. :(

14 December 2007

Letter to the Editor

Here is a letter I sent to the Editors of the Joplin Globe in September. Not only did they not print it, they never acknowledged that I sent it. I sent it twice just in case, but never heard from the Globe.

Dear Editors,

There you go again, Globe Editors. In your "In our view" editorial, "Hope where none existed," (Sep. 5, 2005), you refer to the wonderful, heartwarming, perhaps miraculous story of six-year-old Rylea Bartlett, who was born blind, but whose sight was partially restored after receiving stem-cell transplants from umbilical cords. But then your true colors show.

Referring to opponents of embryonic (not umbilical cord) stem cell research, you state, "We don’t fault those who follow their consciences, but we think that they are caught in between rapid advances in medical science that have outpaced medical ethics and public understanding." In effect, what you are saying is that we the public are too ignorant to know what is good for us. You go on to once again push your agenda, claiming that the best hope for those suffering from various unnamed maladies that reduce quality or duration of life is "somatic cell nuclear transfer research here in Missouri." Non sequitur!

Well, the public is not so ignorant as you seem to think. We understand that the creation of human beings (embryos) by the process you so single-mindedly promote, only to destroy them in the hope that others' suffering might be decreased is and forever will be unacceptable. And furthermore, as Rylea's story shows, treatments are being developed utilizing stem cells that do not involve violating this ethical deadline. Wouldn't the wise, compassionate course of action be to hold off on somatic cell nuclear transfer? There is plenty of hope for treatments arising from research using non-embryonic stem cells and from other related techniques under development. I predict that the "need" for embryonic stem cells for medical research will be fleeting. Let's wait and see.

Sincerely,
mpg

Why is the media trying to force legalized human cloning?

Since the beginnings of the stem cell research debate, I have argued that somatic cell nuclear transfer (SCNT), the technique used to clone Dolly the sheep and numerous other animals since, is unnecessary. Why? Not because adult stem cells are underutilized (which they are) or because the research shows no promise of helping treat or cure disease (which it does), but because I predict that soon, researchers will be able to overcome the obstacles that prevent reprogramming cells to perform other functions, and the production and destruction of human life in the form of embryos will simply be unnecessary. The article quoted below from www.nocloning.org seems to show that that day may be closer than even I thought.

Creator of Dolly the Sheep Abandons Human Cloning in favor of More Promising Research

Professor Ian Wilmut Believes Cures More Likely to be Found Without Human Cloning

ST. LOUIS, MO - In news that "could mark the beginning of the end" for the human cloning procedure promoted by the Stowers Institute and other human cloning supporters in Missouri, the London based Telegraph is reporting that the creator of Dolly the Sheep has decided to abandon the cloning technique he helped pioneer in favor of more promising stem cell research.

The Telegraph reports: "Prof [Ian] Wilmut, who works at Edinburgh University, believes a rival method pioneered in Japan has better potential for making human embryonic cells which can be used to grow a patient's own cells and tissues for a vast range of treatments, from treating strokes to heart attacks and Parkinson's, and will be less controversial than the Dolly method known as 'nuclear transfer.'" (www.telegraph.co.uk/earth/main.jhtml?xml=/earth/2007/11/16/scidolly116.xml&page=1)

"Today's news serves as a wake-up call to Missouri citizens. One of the most respected scientists in the field has decided to abandon human cloning experiments because new developments in stem cell research hold more potential for cures and treatments," said Jaci Winship, Executive Director of Missourians Against Human Cloning. "This validates what all of us who support the Cures Without Cloning Initiative have clearly stated - human cloning is unethical, unproven and unnecessary."

Winship went on to challenge the Missouri Coalition for Lifesaving Cures to abandon human cloning and support the wide spectrum of truly promising stem cell research.

"Human cloning just doesn't offer the promise to find new cures that its supporters contend," Winship said. We applaud Professor Wilmut for his foresight and wisdom in ignoring the hype and focusing on stem cell research that holds true promise. We hope this helps pull the wool from the eyes of those who have been misled about human cloning experiments."

Missourians Against Human Cloning is part of a broad-based, statewide coalition of grassroots organizations committed to prohibiting the cloning of human beings in Missouri. Interested citizens are invited to visit www.nocloning.org for more information.

Resurrecting the blog

So, I've decided to resurrect the blog once again. For my first new post, I'm copying a news item from last month. Well, that will actually be my second new post (coming up next)... I've also added a link to the MAHC (Missourians Against Human Cloning) website.

08 March 2006

U.S. Lets Missouri Family Host Vietnam Orphan

This article from the Worcester Telegram & Gazette AP National News popped up in my RSS feed today... It's great when the system actually works!

07 March 2006

New name for the blog

Michael's Musings was getting a little worn out, and I never really got around to posting many "musings"... So I've decided to give the blog a new name: Missouri Family Life. We'll see how it goes.

03 March 2006

Our Article in The Chart

So, our campus newspaper, The Chart wrote an article about our trip to Korea. They even got most of the facts right. Errors: the guest house was furnished, but there were no people around; two captions on photos got switched; they wrote "Madeleine" when they meant "Audrey" when talking about people on the subway. Not bad for a newspaper article. See it for yourself--Family adopts Korean child.

28 February 2006

Madeleine's Announcement

I have had these announcements for some time now, but I finally got around to mailing them. So I can post the picture here without spoiling the surprise. Well, since no one actually reads this, I don't know what I was worrying about...


27 February 2006

Open Loops: Twelve Ways To Mark Up A Book

Bert Webb has an interesting guide to how to mark up a book that you are reading and/or studying. Note: this does not include a highlighter!Open Loops: Twelve Ways To Mark Up A Book

15 January 2006

On the way to the airport


This one speaks for itself, I think...

Family with Billy at the Morning Tomato

Audrey wasn't so sure about the person taking the photo, but she did like Billy! The Koreans really favor children, and she began to like everyone taking a fancy to her all week! This is probably the first photo with all four of us.

Madeleine JooYun and foster mom on gotcha day

See how much she was loved? This was an emotional day for all; sad and happy all at the same time. I've got two more photos, but not much to say, so I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves.

12 January 2006

Leaving Seoul

Here's to a happier ending!

Sorry I haven't posted the last 2 days. We've been getting in late (7:00 is late) and I was just too tired.

Tuesday evening there was a note on the door from Mrs. Lee saying that she had found us a guide for a tour following our 11am meeting and well-baby doctor's visit with Madeleine Joo Yun. It was so nice of her to go to what I'm sure was extra trouble...

Wednesday we had the well-baby visit , and met the foster mom and dad again. This time, we had a card expaining why we were late to our first meeting, the gifts, camcorder, etc. The FM gave us a beautiful hanbok for Madeleine (and we had bought them also for Susan and Audrey). She also had a photo album just filled with photos of Madeleine and the foster family!

Susan could tell that she was asking if we could go to lunch with them, but Mrs. Lee told them no, that we were going on a city tour. How sad. We enjoyed the tour lots (see below) but we really missed out on a special time there, I think.

Then we met Song, a 20-year old who begins university soon. He had made us reservations for lunch in the district near Gyeongbokgung palace, but Audrey was very sleepy and I had to carry her most of the way (my back!), so we missed the time. So he walked around until he found a restaurant that would take us... for a fixed menu Korean lunch. We each had a whole fish (Audrey wouldn't touch hers) and maybe 20 side dishes (various kimchis, fish, oysters, anchovies, seaweed, lotus flowers... on and on). It was wonderful!

We went onto the palace. This wasn't as exciting as it might have been, having seen Cheohndokgung the day before, so we went through rather quickly and onto the Korean Folk Museum. I would love to have had more time to look at everyyjing there--Korean history from around the birth of Christ to the present. Then onto Insadong, which was fun. We didn't see all of it, but ate an early diiner and went on home and to bed.

Yesterday, I wanted to get the last shopping done. We got an early start, and I intended to go to the Hyundai store in the basement of TechnoMart that Cheryl said was at Gangbyeon Station. It took an hour on the subway to get there, and we arrived about 9:45 to what was basically a mall. Most stores didn't open until 10, so we looked around for a while. Actually, the store in the basement was not a Hyndai store at all, but a Lotte Mart, so something must have changed. It was as Cheryl described, though, similar to a US Wal-Mart. Found some bottle nipples for Andie and bought lots of cookies/snacks to take home for gifts for nieces and nephews...

I don't regret going, because this was our only trip out of the city center, and we saw some scenery (the icy Han river, mountains) that we would have otherwise missed, since our planes arrived and are leaving after dark.

Then onto City Hall station, and we walked to the Kyobo building and bookstore. Wow! We found some large storybooks in Hangul and English, on a table near the primary school English readers (Grade 1, 2, etc.)

Then we walked toward Namdaemun, and stopped at a likely Korean restaurant. Susan got some noodles that she saw someone else eating, but I stuck with the dolsot bibimbap, having exhausted my adventurous spirit and wanting something that I knew I liked. Still, the waitress really wanted to help me stir it all up (I prefer mine not stirred so much). And only 8000 won for 2 meals.

Then onto Namdaemun where we finally found the name chops (see other thread) and ended up making ourselves 5 minutes late to pick up Madeleine. Who knows when we'll be back, so we had to get them now!

Back to Hapjeong, where Susan went ahead and I stopped by the florist. When we got to Holt, there was a radio crew there doing a story. They had alsready done one on domestic adoptions and were doing one on international adoption. They were interviewing the FM and took her photo with Madeleine. We also agreed to answer a couple of questions, and they recorded our voices and Mrs. Lee's translation.

Finally we were ready to receive Madeleine. Mrs Lee said a prayer in Korean. Susan wanted to videotape it, but I didn't feel right doing so. I don' know what she said, but the prayer went on a long time, and that's when the emotion of it all really got to me. It is obvious how much love and care everyone involved puts into giving these children a chance for a family!

The whole foster family were crying, even though fd was trying to stay in the shadows... The fm gave Audrey a knitted hat and scarf (purchased) and a hat for Madeleine (that she made herself). She even gave Audrey a sack full of cookies and snacks. It was a very emotional time, and one that we will mostly have to remember without video or pictures, because it happened so quickly.

Last night went better than I expected. Madeleine cried quite a bit for a while. It is obvious that she missed her fm. But then she had some happy time, and she slept in the bed with Susan and me. She got one bottle sometime in the middle of the night, and woke up around 5 am. We gave her another bottle and she slept with Susan until 9:00! I know we are in for some tough adjustment, but I am so happy to have slept when I had been prepared not to, and to have had some good bonding time with Madeleine!

It is now 12:40, and our van leaves for the airport at 3:00, so this may be my last post. I wanted to send some photos, but may not have a chance. So I'll post again from home! Goodbye Korea!

10 January 2006

Tuesday in Seoul

We were really depressed last night. So many glitches. No driver at the airport, they wouldn't let us into the new guest house over the weekend, no volunteer could be found for the city tour, we got the wrong information about our 1st visit with Madeleine and the foster family, and were lucky to be only 30 minutes late (and with no list of questions, no gifts, no camcorder), and we could tell they weren't terribly impressed.

So we needed a great day like today to change our attitude. We wanted to do Gyeongbukgung palace, but read in the guidebook that it is closed Tuesdays. So we gave another go at getting into the new guest house. This time, the doorman let us through--I think he thought we had an appointment--and we met Stacy and her mom and neice. We all went to a Hyundai market looking for baby stuff. We didn't find much (and why are all the dolls caucasian?) and it was expensive. I thought I recalled that someone said that it was like the Korean Wal-Mart, but we didn't think so. The basement was extremely cool, with kiosks vending cheesecake, tea, wine, toiletries, and one we had to try--some kind of hot pancake with a sweet sesame seed/cinnamon/apple (?) filling. Excellent? Anyone know what these are called (hato?). Also a really upscale grocery that has to be seen to be beleived.

Then we intended to go to lunch at a restaurant supposedly near Changdeokgung Palace, but even with the hangul and asking directions at the police station, we couldn't find it. It was not a total loss, though. We went on to the palace and got the tickets for the guided tour in English. We had half an hour and no lunch in us, so we went back to the french patisserie in the Anguk subway station--heavenly pastries (sweet and savory) and a cafe mocha.... And the palace tour was great. It seemed warmer today. The sun was out and it was calm, but maybe we're just getting used to the weather.

Then we went to Namdaemung market, arriving about 4:00. Much cheaper souvenirs (tassel ornaments, keychain fobs... than Itaewon), and the tourist info was able to direct us to the indoor "Korean Folk Market" where Susan found a hanbok for herself (already bought one for Audrey at Itaewon, and we'll get one for Madeleine if we aren't given one, which seems likely at this point).

We lost Stacy and family at the market (understandable) and Audrey was crashing out, so we stopped at a restaurant and had dolsot bibimbap and then back to the guest house.

When we arrived, there was a note on the door from Mrs. Lee saying that she had found us a guide for a tour following our 11am meeting and well-baby doctor's visit with Madeleine. It was so nice of her to go to what I'm sure was extra trouble...
More tomorrow, I hope. What a great day!

09 January 2006

Whew! Made the first meeting!

We were a little slow in getting around this morning. The heat in the old guest house went out about midnight, and it was getting colder and colder. The Holt driver brought another dad to check in a little before 6 am, and we asked him about the heat. He got someone to look at it, and I think they had to cycle the power to the boiler... anyway, the ondol floors are great, but they don't exactly act quickly. So it was a cold morning, and when the hot water ran out in the bathroom upstairs and Audrey was getting really cold, we had to rush to the downstairs shower to finish up.

We stopped by the Holt office at about 9:45 this morning to confirm our 1:30 appt. and to inquire about the city tour (which we had requested, but never received any confirmation about). We were told (as best we could understand) that they were in chapel and to try back after 10, so we went for coffee/hot cocoa and a muffin at the Morning Tomato, and came back about 11. I'm glad we did, because Madeleine was there, and they were quite anxious that we had not arrived for our 10:30 appt! We were unprepared, as I was going to change clothes and we didn't bring our gifts, list of questions, camcorder, etc... I think the meeting went OK, but I'm sure the foster family found us quite thoughtless.

We have another meeting scheduled Wednesday, and will meet with the foster family and the doctor. Hopefully we can make amends for being so late and unprepared for the first appointment.

And BTW, no city tour--they couldn't find a volunteer guide--but now I'm not sure if they even know we asked.

All this aside, Madeleine was BEAUTIFUL! What a precious little girl! It is obvious that she has been loved and cared for immensely. I can't imagine what it must be like to raise a baby from infancy only to give her away 6 months later.

08 January 2006

Sunday in Seoul

Only one more day before we meet Madeleine!

We woke up at the usual 3:30 am, read the Holt board and found that the Morning Tomato was closed Sunday. Decided to go to church! I found the International Lutheran Church which has services in English (it's near the Spanish embassy), and we went. It was great! We met a woman who teaches middle school at the Seoul Foreign School, and she gave us ideas for where to go and what to do. She would have invited us for dinner, but school just started back last week and she has play practice every evening. She did give us her email and phone. We talked with lots of people, and had lunch at a nearby Korean restaurant (behind the Harley Davidson dealer). Sat on the ondol floors and had kimchi chigae (soup) and pollock (koldadi?).

Everywhere we go, Audrey attracts attention. Lots of people, mostly girls but not all, say hi, wave at her, pull her pants leg down to cover her ankles, ask her name... It makes the subway much more enjoyable than the typical "look down and pretend you don't see anyone" experience.

Our "guide" thought we might like to shop at Insadong because she thought they might have more there on the weekend, and it was near the Korean Folk Museum (indoors) and Gyeongbokgung palace. But since it seemed like today was going to be the warmest, sunniest day, we decided to do the Itaewon/tourist shopping thing. It was fun. We bought some typical touristy stuff for us (chopsticks/spoons, a sweater for me, a really cute hanbok for Audrey) and as gifts (dolls, tassel ornaments...). Audrey collapsed about 4:00 and fell asleep in my arms, so we had an early dinner of Korean BBQ pork ribs, stopped by Starbucks for a mocha--a happening place, 3 stories, warm, crammed with young people chatting, playing scrabble, studying (Chinese, I think), etc. And here, we were able to communicate because lots of English was spoken, or the vendors had cards with prices on them to point to. Tip: don't buy at the first place you see, and haggle!

We meet Madeleine tomorrow! This process has been almost a year and a half for us, but it hasn't really seemed real to me until we arrived in Korea. I'm so glad we came, even with the early stress.

{I forgot... we took someone's sugestion and bought the subway cards today. Since we obviously were not communicating what we wanted, a young man who spoke some English came up and tried to help us. However, we still had to basically argue with the attendant for several minutes to get him to sell us the card! He even gave us paper tickets and change, which we made him take back and give us the cards. BTW, they cost 2500 won to buy, then we had to add 5000 won to the card at purchase time... well, I guess we had to. So it was 15000 won for the two cards, but you get a discount of 100 won on each trip}

07 January 2006

Found a Coat!

Thanks to all who had suggestions about where to find a coat! Wish I had read the one about the Hyundai store... We went first to the Myeong-dong district and went to the Lotte department store. It had a Krispy Kreme Doughnuts shop on the first floor, and children's clothes on the seventh floor. But the clothes there were more expensive than we were looking for. Then we went along to Dongdaemun market. It was too COLD to shop outside for long, so we went into the high-rise department stores and found one that Audrey would wear in the second one, Doota. Of course, the one she wanted cost twice as much as 2 others Mom and Dad liked, but it IS cute. We didn't find the actual markets, which are supposed to be large, indoor buildings (sort of like fancy flea markets, but with new (not recycled) stuff for sale.

Had lunch in a little restaurant near Doota (called Song, I think). A Korean middle school teacher approached us and wanted to help us pick some things. It was nice to have some recommendations other than our standard bibimbap. Then she had us write Audrey's name and something she needed in her life on a card, because she wanted to pray for her. I didn't totally understand it all, but she was very nice.

On the downside, arriving on Friday evening was probably not the best thing. We didn't think of using the info desk at the airport, as someone else did to ask the driver to come; Susan called the reception desk but the language barrier prevented communication. Holt offices are closed, and the people on duty speak no English, so we're pretty much on our own. We went to the new guest house thinking we might commiserate with the other families here, but they wouldn't let us in. We can't even get the attention of the watchman at Holt to give him our room key, so we've been carrying it around (on it's long stick)!

Guess we're going to go to Itaewon today and freeze and try to shop.